Enjoying Cigars in Italy

We kicked off October with an exciting whirlwind trip to northern Italy, which explains the brief pause in posting. Our journey took us through Venice, Murano, Burano, Padua, Ravenna, Bologna, Modena, Parma, Pisa, Florence, Siena, and Milan. What a ride! While we’ve previously explored the southern regions of Italy, this northern adventure was a fresh and unforgettable experience. Italy is rich in history, culture, and religious landmarks, making it impossible to take it all in on a single trip. Besides soaking in the sights and indulging in the incredible food, I always look forward to the opportunity to enjoy a few cigars in an environment far more welcoming to this pastime than in the U.S.

I packed a couple of travel humidors with cigars from home, but I was also on the lookout for cigar shops, hoping to pick up some Cuban cigars I’d been eager to try. In Italy, you’ll frequently encounter tabaccherias, or “tabacchi” shops. These small stores are like convenience shops, offering everything from tobacco products to lottery tickets, train passes, and stamps. The most common cigars found there are dry-cured Italian cigars, like Toscano. Early on in the trip, I picked up a pack of Toscano Classico, an inexpensive yet richly flavored smoke that I always enjoy, whether in Italy or back home.

My first chance to enjoy a cigar on this trip came in Venice. After a gondola ride through the canals on a sunny morning, we were hit with torrential rains in the afternoon. But during a brief break in the downpour, I seized the moment, lit up a Toscano, and enjoyed a relaxing stroll. I rarely smoke while walking at home, but in Italy, it’s a simple pleasure that feels perfectly natural.

Amidst all the sightseeing, and despite the frequent rain showers, I still found moments to enjoy a cigar and a drink at street-side cafés. After a fascinating visit to the Parmigiano Reggiano and Prosciutto factories in Parma, we stopped at a café in the heart of the city for some afternoon refreshments. It was the perfect opportunity to light up another Toscano Classico, while savoring a generously sized Negroni and a delicious pastry.

With the combination of busy schedules and unpredictable weather, it wasn’t always easy to find time to relax during the day. More often than not, I found those moments of peace after dinner, back at one of the hotels where we stayed.

For a late evening cigar I usually enjoyed one of the cigars I had brought from home, such as the AJ Fernandez Dias de Gloria Brazil Robusto shown above. The Bira Messina Cristalli di Sale purchased at the hotel bar was refreshing, even if it does come from an Italian Heineken brewery.

We stayed four nights at a very nice hotel in Montecantini. They had a large covered patio with plenty of seating. Unfortunately the hotel bar was not open every night — the service schedule seemed to be irregular.

On the first evening at the hotel, I took advantage of the clear night to enjoy a Perdomo Reserve 10th Anniversary Sun Grown Robusto I had packed from home. Alas, the bar was closed. 

It was mid-trip, while visiting Florence, that I came across the Tabaccheria San Giovanni Di Simonetti Mauro in the square near the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore. The well-reviewed shop had a fairly sizable selection of premium cigars, both the usual Nicaraguan and Dominican brands, as well as some Cubans. I picked up a few moderately priced Partagas Serie D No. 4.

Located in that same square was, of all things, an Irish pub. Of course we stopped in for a quick beer. 

The next evening, the hotel bar open, I shared a Partagas with a fellow traveler and we enjoyed the cigars, again with Negronis, before dinner. It was raining, so the covered patio was welcome.

I was pleasantly surprised by the Partagas Serie D. I did not take note of the date on the box at the store, so had no idea if the cigars' age. They seemed to be in good shape and showed no signs of cracking or damage. The flavor profile, as with all the (limited) Cuban cigars I've smoked, was on the mild side. The flavor had a sweet, cream and vanilla profile. There was a hint of cinnamon present but overall it was a quite mild smoke. 

The trip itinerary was filled with much more than cigars obviously. As always, there was copious delicious food and drink to be enjoyed. We moved around a lot, taking in numerous northern Italian cities. I had hoped to visit a store with a full selection of Cuban cigars. It was not until our last day, while in Milan, that I came across Noli Fumatori in the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. I did only some window shopping as there would be no time to consume any purchases before flying home.

The acceptance of personal choices in Italy, and Europe as a whole, is a stark contrast to the judgmental attitude found in America, despite the well-established freedoms we profess and enjoy here. Cigarettes and "e-cigs" are the prevalent choices, but cigar smokers are seen frequently. After finishing one quick lunch during the trip, our server came by and placed an ashtray on the table, as if the after-meal smoke was expected. I compared that to the shocked reaction shown by one of my traveling companions when she saw the remnants of a previous evening's cigar in the ashtray on a hotel patio in the morning. (Most days the outdoor ashtrays were emptied very early in the morning, if not late at night.)

More cigars, and drinks, were enjoyed than documented here, most of the time I didn't bother trying to get a photo, and just enjoyed the moment.

It was another great trip — despite our Irish heritage we truly enjoy visiting Italy. It's still the only place to get a proper espresso! I have no doubt this trip, our third to the country, will not be our last. 

Cheers!

Toscano Antico and Espresso

I enjoyed a fun "Italian" dessert after dinner this week. I had the urge to enjoy one of the Toscano cigars I brought back from Italy last fall. An espresso seemed fitting to go along.

The Toscano Antica is a 6 x 38 cheroot slim panatela with a very rustic appearance. The cigars are dry rolled and do not require storage in a humidor. The wrapper is fired cured Kentucky tobacco and the filler is blend of USA and Italian tobaccos. There is no binder leaf. This is the classic Clint Eastwood Western movie cigar.

The Toscano Antica has a strong wood fire aroma even before lighting. The flavors when smoking bring to mind smoky BBQ with some sweetness added in. Despite the rough, dry appearance the burn has no issues and gave about a 40 minute smoke. That was plenty of time for a couple of double espressos.

I do enjoy these cigars on occasion. Fortunately Tuscano packages them for export and they can be had, rather inexpensively, from many online retailers.

Cheers!

Italy: Pocket Espresso

One of the fun memories from our trip to Italy fourteen years ago was that of the Pocket Espresso. At just about every restaurant rest stop along the autostrada we found these wonderful "pick-me-ups." Shaped like a little ketchup pack from a fast food place, the packet contains a shot of espresso. Poke in the tiny attached straw and suck in a shot of tasty and refreshing espresso. We anxiously looked forward to enjoying them again during our recent trip.

We were a couple days in to the trip when we saw some by the checkout during a stop. The current versions, now called Pocket Coffee, are rich in chocolate flavoring. I don't recall the chocolate addition previously. They are different but still good. 

We mentioned to our guide the apparent rarity of the treats. She told us they are now a "seasonal" item, with summer and winter editions. The summer version was currently being dropped from stock in preparation for the arrival of the winter one. While the summer version is espresso with chocolate added, the winter edition is a chocolate candy with espresso inside. The winter edition is even sold on Amazon now.

We enjoyed the Pocket Espresso frequently, especially on long bus rides. The few were brought home and were welcome during those initial recovery days after the trip.

As good as the instant treats are, it's hard to beat an actual, freshly made Italian espresso. Especially when paired with a delicious pastry.

Cheers!

Still Reliving Italy - Aperitivo, Drinks, and Cigars

It's been about a month since we returned from Italy. As often happens after we travel, we try to relive the moments for a while afterwards. Espresso, antipasti, negronis, aperol spritz, they've all been repeated the last couple of weeks. 

On what will probably be one of the last Sunday afternoon outdoor cocktail sessions recently, Colleen prepared the antipasto platter while I put together a couple Aperol Spritz drinks. The temperature on the deck was cool, and after a bit we did move over to the screened porch and set out the heaters on low.

Of course, I lit a cigar. This time the Southern Draw Jacobs Ladder Brimstone in a Lonsdale vitola.

Southern Draw Jacob's Ladder Brimstone is a full bodied blend with a USA Broadleaf wrapper and binder. The strength is kicked up by a triple ligero filler blend of Nicaraguan and Dominican tobaccos. This Lonsdale vitola is a 6 x 44 stick. Lonsdales are close to Lanceros, but slightly shorter and thicker.

The smoke is a robust blend of dark chocolate, roasted coffee, dark fruit, along with a pepper spiciness. The burn was perfect throughout with copious smoke output. I've only had my cigars in the humidor a few weeks yet it was certainly ready to smoke.

The bitterness of the Aperol Spritz at first seems like it may not work with cigars, but I've been pleasantly surprised with the pairings I've tried. I found this one to be especially enjoyable. I look forward to smoking more of the Southern Draw Jacob's Ladder Brimstone soon. 

Cheers!

Italy: Negronis and Cigars

Bourbon was not a beverage we saw much during our stay in Italy, though in truth I was not expecting it either. Obviously we drank a lot of wine with our meals. When I went looking for a cocktail to enjoy with an evening cigar, the Negroni was a commonly available option. At our hotel in Assisi, the Negroni was the 7 Euro "special" available each evening, so an obvious choice. During the afternoons, the clerk on duty had mixology knowledge limited to Aperol Spritz, hence that beverage during a previous smoking break.

The Negroni is a classic Italian cocktail, that is very simple to make. It consists of equal parts gin, vermouth rosso, and Campari, stirred over ice and garnished with an orange slice typically.  As a side note, cocktails are about the only time one sees ice in drinks in Italy.

Despite being considered an apéritif, we usually enjoyed the negronis after dinner. (Especially at the hotel in Assisi where there was no one with the knowledge to prepare the drink until after 7:00PM.) One evening pairing was with a Rocky Patel The Edge 20th Anniversary Robusto. The cigar features a 10 year aged Ecuador Sumatra wrapper, a Honduran Broadleaf binder, with filler tobaccos from Honduras and Panama. The 5 1/2 x 50 Robusto is is a medium bodied smoke with rich notes of espresso, dark chocolate, and nuts.

Later in the trip, another evening and another Negroni, this time with the Plasencia Reserva Original Toro. The richly flavored 6 x 50 Toro has notes of espresso, cedar, pepper, and dark cherry, with some sweet bread in the background.

Did I mention I enjoyed a lot of Negronis in Ireland? Here's another pairing, this time properly consumed before dinner. This one was served in a water glass, with both an orange slice and a lemon peel. It was paired with the last of my cigars brought from home, a Crowned Heads Le Carême in the Canonazo (5 7/8 x 52) vitola. The Le Carême is one of my favorite smokes. This 5 7/8 x 52 box pressed stick has a Connecticut Broadleaf wrapper, a Sumatra binder, and Nicaraguan fillers. Though is has a creamy, sweet chocolate and nutty flavor profile it made another enjoyable pairing. (From this point on, smoking would be be limited to Italian Toscanos.

The Negroni is a more bitter cocktail than the sweeter profile of my usual straight bourbon, or Old Fashioned cocktail choices. However, all the cigar pairings were enjoyable. It was Italy after all.

And then...

When a friend who was also on the Italy trip came by for dinner recently, we decided to recreate the memory with more Negroni and cigars!

Cheers!

Five O'Clock Friday: Reasons to Drink

As seen on a building in Rome

The Italians get it.

Cheers!

Italy: Tuscano Cigars

During our two week visit to southern Italy, I kept a casual eye out for cigar shops. I had brought along a few cigars to smoke, but not enough to last the trip. I also hoped to find a few Cuban cigars I was interested in trying. Although tobacco stores were ubiquitous wherever we went, actual retailers of fine cigars were rare. 

Throughout the country, the Tabaccheria, or “tabacchi," were ubiquitous and found every few blocks at a minumum. In these typically stall-like stores, a variety of tobacco products are sold. Rolling and pipe tobacco, "e-cigarettes," and standard cigarettes are very popular. There are selections of Italian cigars, most of which I am unfamiliar with. The most common were the ones from Tuscano, a name I had heard in the past at least. I frequently saw men walking through the towns with these rustic sticks in hand.

Toscanos are "charoot" type cigars made in Tuscany. Think Clint Eastwood in the old "spaghetti westerns" and you'll know the cigar. They are rough rolled, consisting of a wrapper, that doubles as the binder, and filler leaves. The tobaccos used are fermented Kentucky tobaccos grown in Italy. The slender cigars are wider in the middle and taper toward the ends. Traditionally they are cut in half and smoked, although after my first one, I skipped that step and smoked them "whole." The cigars are dry and do not require humidification. They are packaged 5 to a box.

The first one I tried was Toscano Classico. The approximately 6 x 38 stick has the strong aroma of a smokey campfire. I expected a harsh experience, but it was more of a medium bodied smoke and easy to smoke. The flavor was reminiscent of smoky BBQ and semi-sweet chocolate. My initial Toscano pairing was with an Aperol Spritz, a classic Italian afternoon aperitif, and some Amaretti di Loreto almond cookies. The combo made for an enjoyable afternoon after a morning of sightseeing. The cigar left behind a persistent smoked wood flavor in the mouth.

I also picked up a box of Tuscano Antico when I had some time to kill one afternoon in Rome. I smoked it in the plaza just outside of the Vatican while waiting for our group to assemble. (Smoking is prohibited within the Vatican City State.) These were described as having stronger pepper notes. The one I smoked was less sweet than the Classico and I found it somewhat bitter. 

Having smoked the cigar supply I had packed, and failing to find a place to restock by the end of our trip, I stuck with Tuscanos the last few days of the trip. I had a fun "Italian" pairing on one of the last evenings, consisting of a Tuscano Classica and Birra Moretti Italian-brewed beer. The cool beer was very refreshing on a hot and humid Rome evening. 

During our last day in Italy I found the Fincato La Casa del Habano in Rome selling both Cuban and other cigars, although with an extremely sparse inventory. Alas being the end of the trip I had no time to pick any up to smoke.

Cheers!

Italy: A Cigar and a Eucharistic Procession

We recently returned from a two week pilgrimage in Italy. Visiting historical and religious sites in Naples, San Giovanni Rotundo, Lanciano, Assisi, Rome, among others was a wonderful and joyful experience. Besides the beautiful churches and amazing history, we also enjoyed great food and drink, and even had time for cigars on occasion. 

Once such smoking occasion was in San Giovanni Rotundo, the home town of Saint Padre Pio. When we stepped outside after dinner I noticed the hotel's outdoor dining area had "Vietato fumare" signs posted -- some of the rare no smoking posters we saw during the entire trip. Our bus driver happened by and we asked him where we could smoke. He looked at us like we were crazy and waved his arms around, stating, "Outside." That was the situation almost everywhere. If an outdoor dinner area didn't have ashtrays on the tables, they'd generally bring you one if asked. 

We opted to stroll and smoke. We had visited San Giovanni Rotundo fourteen years ago, and although the town had grown and expanded exponentially, we still recalled our way around the old original section.

As walked by the Basilica where the Saint had lived, we heard the distinctive sound of a thurible being swung coming from inside the church. We realized a Eucharist Procession was taking place and the people were exiting the building onto the plaza in front. We stopped our stroll and knelt in adoration until the procession reentered the church. Coincidentally, during our first visit to San Giovanni Rotundo 14 years ago, we happened upon a huge procession as well during a festival. 

Although we had enjoyed cigars after some dinners earlier in the trip, I happened to joke to the priest friend with us that this could be the inaugural smoke of our informal Saint Pope Pius X smoking group. We took it as Divine Providence that the procession began as we arrived with our cigars in front the basilica. 

There would be many cigars and other adventures during our trip. Some of those will be the subject of later Musings.

Cheers!

Pizzeria Paradiso

We've been making use of the holiday staycation to do some extra shooting and to visit some of the "beer stops" that have long been on our to-do list. Last week after taking in the Jerusalem IMAX movie at the Museum of Natural History, we stopped by Pizzeria Paradiso in Old Town Alexandria.

Pizzeria Paradiso's beer menu lists some 12 taps, including one rotating cask, along with 230 other beers in bottles and cans. Reviewing the multi-page list was going to take some time, so we started out with a couple of appetizers; Antipasto with Cured Italian Meat, Pecorino, Homemade Bread, Hot Cherry Pepper, Ligurian Olives, and the Crostino Formaggio Di Capra, with Toasted Homemade Bread, Goat Cheese, Prosciutto di Parma, Sundried Tomato, and Basil. Both plates were very tasty and set the stage for the rest of the meal.

I opted to start with the cask selection, Jaipur IPA from England's Thornbridge Brewery. The Engish IPA had nice grassy and citrus aroma. The flavor was citrus and a bit resinous, with a mild bitterness in the finish. I was pleasantly surprised at the level of citrus for an English IPA, a style which I often find lacking in flavor balance. My glass was emptied by the time our main course of pizzas arrived, but the IPA's low 5.9% ABV, left the option open for another beer.

My next selection was an intriguing Italian beer. When we made our pilgrimage to Italy, I had read about that Italian craft brewers were using chestnuts in their beers, and had hoped to enjoy some while there. Unfortunately, while we experienced many wonderful foods and drinks, the Italian craft beers eluded me. But here in good ol' Virginia, I was able to order CastagnAle from Birra del Borgo in Italy.

CastagnAle pours a deep brown color, looking a lot like a typical brown ale. The aroma is nutty and sweet caramel. We spent a lot of time discussing the beer's unique flavor and trying to describe it. The  flavors presented were complex. Earthy nuttiness, caramel, honey, and, something else... Chestnuts, I suppose. The lingering mild bitterness had a nutty, fruity, aspect to it that was hard to place. But to be clear, I liked it. A lot. Despite having purchased some roasted chestnuts from a street vendor in Rome, and finding them utterly disgusting, I was still quite taken by this beer brewed with chestnuts. The snow was falling steadily in Alexandria and we had a long drive back to Fredericksburg, otherwise I might have ordered another to continue to tasting adventure. At just 4.2% ABV, it was certainly doable under different circumstances. I will be searching for this, and some similar beers in the future.

Our party also feasted on pizza, naturally. There are 11 "house" pizzas at Pizzeria Paradiso, though our party ended up selecting two each of just two of them. My selection was the Napoletana, made with Paradiso Tomato, Basil, Anchovies, Capers, and Mozzarella. The truth be told, it was the Anchovies that sold me — I have a weakness for these salty bits. The pizza had a wonderful wood-fired crust and was quite tasty. Without a doubt some of the best pizza I've had in a long time. Even the next day, we were commenting in text messages between our party members about the great food.

We were enjoying the Italian food and drink so much, we opted for dessert too. In my case, a simple dish of assorted Biscotti. And in a move I swore I'd never do again outside of Italy, I ordered a double espresso. Having enjoying many an espresso at cafés in Rome, I've become disenchanted with the American versions I'd encountered. All in all, the expresso at Pizzeria Paradiso was better than others I've had here at home, though while flavorful, still felt a tad watered down. Enjoyable nonetheless. Between a quest to find more Italian chestnut beers, and proper espresso, we might just have to work on another trip to Italy!

We enjoyed our evening of food and drink at Pizzeria Paradiso. It's one of those places that we've been wanting to get to for quite some time. When we're back in Old Town again, we'll definitely make another visit.

Birra Nursia Marks One Year of Brewing

The monks at St. Benedict's Monastery in Norcia, Italy recently celebrated one year of beer making at their brewery, Birra Nursia.

Not only is the brewery successful, beer is apparently a great tool for evangelization. The monks take  Theology on Tap to a whole new level!

See "Beauty and beer: Monks' outreach is part of new evangelization" for more on the monks and their beer. Also, a previous Musings post on Birra Nursia is here.

The Monks of Birra Nursia

The Benedictine Monks of Norcia have opened their new brewery in Norcia, Italy. Birra Nursia is located within the walls of the Monastery of San Benedetto, in the Umbria region of central Italy. Due to the strict Benedictine rule of enclosure, the brewery will only be open to the public once a year. However, the beers are for sale at the monastery gift shop and at local restaurants. When we someday get back to Italy, perhaps we'll get to try out these beers. Meanwhile, we'll enjoy this video tour of the brewery and the inauguration day celebration.

More monks brewing more beer! All seems right with the world.

Snow in Roma!

It was an exciting Friday in Rome. They experienced their first snow since 2009. I've only been fortunate enough to visit Rome once, but since that trip I've felt a special love for the Eternal City. I even keep a live web cam widget of St. Peter's on my desktop. The folks in Rome sure seem to have enjoyed the unusual weather.

Italy Trip

We recently made a two-week trip to Italy and Malta. The trip was planned as a religious pilgrimage rather than a vacation, but we managed to find time to do tourist things as well. Along with about 25 other folks and a Priest, we visited holy sites and shrines in Assisi, Loreto, Lanciano, San Giovanni Rotundo, and Rome in Italy. (I'll report on Malta in an upcoming post.)

The trip was glorious and exciting beyond expectations. Standing on the same ground as so many early Christians, and seeing the relics of so many of these Christians and martyrs was at times simply overwhelming. The trip was a well-organized group tour. However, in addition to the planned tours, several of us made efforts to immerse ourselves in the local culture. Each evening we ventured out and walked the towns. We enjoyed gelato, espresso, and other local foods and beverages. We took in local festivals and parades. Sleep? That's something best left for when we returned home.

In Italy, wine rules and we enjoyed local wines with every dinner. As far as beer goes, Italy is a land of lagers. I read about a few artisanal Italian beers before the trip, however I did not run across them while there. Granted, no extreme effort was expended in the search. There was just too much good wine readily available.

Any beer I had in Italy was accompanied by a quick lunch, or alone as a refresher between meals. The most common beers I saw in shops and cafés were Heineken and Becks. I didn't bother with those, though it was apparent they were popular with the local folks. The most commonly offered Italian beers we saw were Peroni and Birra Moretti. Both of these pale lagers are available in the U.S. but I don't think I've ever tried them before. They were as expected, mild and drinkable. Served cold, these beers are refreshing, but at first un-exciting to an American palate more accustomed to bolder "American" flavors. But they aren't horrible either. I didn't experience any "skunky" flavors one often finds with pale lagers in America. Of course, these beers had not been shipped across the ocean either! Nastro Azzuro was another new beer for me. This is a another Peroni product. I purchased a Nastro in a 50 cl can during a roadside stop for lunch. Of the Italian beers, the Peroni drafts I had at a sidewalk café in the Borgo Pio in Rome, with anchovy pizza for lunch, were the most enjoyable.

One other beer I had in Italy was actually an import from Denmark, Ceres Strong Ale. This one seemed to be offered widely, especially in Rome. I grabbed a bottle at a small market down the street from our hotel and enjoyed it right from the bottle. The 7.7% ABV gave this lager a bit stronger flavor that the other european-style lagers.

None of the beers were typical of beers I generally drink. However, they are the beers consumed by the majority of Italian beer drinkers. Pale lagers for sure, but lagers with flavor. Whether it was related to being in Italy or not, I found them more pleasing that the mass produced lagers consumed by the majority of American beer drinkers. After I returned home, I looked up these beers online. As I expected many of the ratings were low, but not reflective of my impressions of these lagers, and the overall experience of drinking beer in Italy.

While we were in Italy I also tried for the first time Grappa and Limoncello. Grappa is made from the leftover grape pressings from the wine making process. It's clear, strong, and will quickly open up your sinuses. I consider it one of those "must try while in Italy" experiences. (Okay, that's done.) Limoncello is a much more pleasant drink. Like grappa, it's served as an after dinner digestivo. It's served chilled and is surprisingly refreshing.

Following Italy, we traveled to Malta. My beer experiences there were both interesting and unexpected. I'll tell you about that soon.