Memories of Italy: Cigars and Spicy Cocktails in Venice

Venice was the final stop on our recent vacation in Italy. The group tour included a two day stay, and we extended our visit by another two. It was fun spending extra time exploring on our own, and we quickly grew surprisingly comfortable navigating the maze-like city.

An added benefit of the extended stay was enjoying two sunny days, as the first two had been plagued by intermittent rain — not unlike our previous visit, when our lone day in Venice was spent mostly taking cover from torrential downpours.

Of course, the pleasant weather also provided more opportunities to enjoy a cigar. Our hotel, the Palazzo Veneziano, was a beautiful four-star property that also boasted an excellent bar. Not only was it exceptionally well stocked, but the specialty cocktail menu was particularly impressive. What caught my attention most was the extensive selection of Negroni variations, several of which I happily returned to a few times during our stay.

The featured cocktail, however, was the Santa Margherita. The spicy drink is made with Altos Tequila Blanco, locally produced Select Aperitivo, lime and orange juice, agave syrup, and a Tajín-spiced rim. When the bartender first served one, he remarked, “There’s a straw, but I recommend you don’t use it.” Wanting the full experience, I followed his advice — and ended up enjoying several Santa Margheritas over the course of our stay.

On our final evening, the patio furniture at the hotel entrance had finally dried out after the earlier rains. After ordering another Santa Margherita from the bar, I settled in outside with a cigar. Fortunately, I had brought along a suitably spicy companion: the AJ Fernandez New World Decenio Robusto.

The Decenio opens with the rich, dark flavors typical of AJ Fernandez blends. Bold notes of dark cocoa and espresso, accented by a lively black pepper spice, remain consistent throughout the medium-to-full-bodied smoke. The cigar paired particularly well with the spicy cocktail, though I found myself using the straw for most sips, only occasionally drinking from the seasoned rim so as not to overwhelm the cigar’s flavors.

After finishing the flavorful pairing, we enjoyed one final sunset stroll through the streets of Venice. The evening light shimmering across the canals and the quiet, narrow streets provided a fitting finale to our visit. Though weary from sixteen days of touring, it felt bittersweet returning to the hotel for one final round of packing before our flight home the next morning.

It’s hard not to smile in Venice

Cheers!

Memories of Italy: Beer, Cigars, and the Alpine Charm of Bolzano

During our Italian vacation, we spent two nights in Bolzano, in South Tyrol. Situated at the gateway to the Dolomite Mountains, Bolzano has the look and feel of an Alpine village, with spectacular mountain views in every direction. Making the region even more intriguing is the strong German influence in its culture, food, and architecture — at times, it feels more like Austria or Bavaria than Italy.

The area was part of the Austrian Empire for centuries before becoming part of Italy after World War I. After the war, Mussolini’s Fascist government attempted to “Italianize” the region by encouraging Italian migration and suppressing the German language. Those efforts largely failed, and the people of South Tyrol still proudly maintain their German heritage and language today. The result is a fascinating blend of cultures where espresso bars and aperitivo traditions coexist alongside Alpine customs, German dialects, and Austrian-style mountain cuisine.

The bar in our hotel offered a couple of locally made, German-style beers, and naturally I was eager to try them. On the first evening, I joined some fellow travelers to enjoy pours of Felsenkeller Bier from Birra Forst. Served in a tall chalice, the cloudy, unfiltered, and unpasteurized beer delivered notes of sweet bread, yeast, and a touch of banana. It was remarkably refreshing and easy to sip.

On another late evening, after a day spent hiking wooded trails and wandering the city streets, I settled into the hotel’s outdoor garden to enjoy another local beer — this time paired with a cigar. I selected the V.I.P. Pils, also from Birra Forst. The crisp pilsner, brewed in the German tradition with a notably dry finish and refined bitterness, proved especially refreshing in the cool Alpine evening air. I paired it with a Las Calaveras Edicion Limitada 2025 LC52 that I had packed from home.

I’ve long enjoyed the annual Las Calaveras releases from Crowned Heads. The 2025 version features a mid-priming Mexican San Andrés wrapper that shows a lighter appearance than the darker maduro tones usually associated with San Andrés tobacco. Beneath that wrapper are Nicaraguan binder and fillers. The cigar treated the palate to notes of coffee and espresso, touches of cocoa, and mild pepper. Underlying it all was a gentle sweetness that softened the richer flavors.

Ideally, the cigar might have paired even better with a darker ale, perhaps a German Dunkel or Bock. However, that wasn’t an option at the time, and I found the combination thoroughly satisfying nonetheless. The crisp bitterness and clean, dry finish of the V.I.P. Pils highlighted the cigar’s cocoa and espresso notes without adding competing sweetness. The cool evening air and tranquil garden setting only enhanced the relaxing atmosphere.

The region’s German influence is readily apparent in the food as well. During a stroll through the market area of Bolzano, we stopped at a vendor’s cart to enjoy some Weißwurst. The sausages were served on paper with a generous dollop of spicy mustard and a hard roll — simple fare, but immensely satisfying.

One evening, we enjoyed dinner at Batzen Häusl, a local brewery and restaurant — not exactly the experience we had expected to find in Italy. I ordered a Batzen Bräu Bock alongside a South Tyrolean bratwurst platter. The beer was rich with dark caramel malt flavors and a mild sweetness.

The sausages were equally delicious, served with roasted potatoes and sauerkraut. I especially enjoyed the creamy sauerkraut, which struck a pleasing balance between sweet and sour flavors.

The food, the beer, the architecture, and the dramatic scenery of the Dolomites towering above the town — not to mention the ever-present German dialect — often made it easy to forget we were in Italy at all. Yet that unique blending of Italian and Germanic cultures is precisely what makes Bolzano and South Tyrol such a memorable destination. It’s a place where Alpine traditions and Italian hospitality coexist seamlessly, creating an atmosphere unlike anywhere else we visited during the trip. For this beer enthusiast, it was like two vacations in one.

Cheers!

The Cynar Spritz - An Italian Inspiration

I’ve been making a few cocktails lately using Cynar as an ingredient. The artichoke-based amaro has a gentle vegetal and earthy bitterness that I find especially enjoyable in an afternoon cocktail. During our recent trip to Italy, I spotted a sign outside a Venice café advertising a Cynar Spritz. This variation on the Italian spritz tradition is said to have originated in Northern Italy around Venice and Padua. Intrigued, I made a mental note to try one at the first opportunity, and I soon found myself enjoying the aperitif several times during our travels.

Like most Spritz cocktails, the recipe is simple.

Cynar Spritz

2 oz Cynar

3 oz chilled Prosecco

1 oz soda water

Lemon wedge or olive for garnish

Fill a wine glass with ice. Add the Cynar first, followed by the Prosecco and finally the soda water. Garnish with either a lemon wedge or olive.

In Italy, I enjoyed versions garnished with both lemon and olives, though I found I preferred the olive. The drinks there appeared to use Castelvetrano olives, which is what I used at home.

Like many Cynar cocktails, the presentation is not the most visually striking, with a color with a deep cola-like hue reminiscent of a ‘Jack and Coke.’ Compared to the more popular Aperol Spritz, the Cynar version is less citrusy and offers more herbal and savory notes.

To my delight, the Cynar Spritz paired exceptionally well with medium-bodied cigars, especially darker maduro blends. I recently enjoyed one alongside an Umbagog Bronzeback from Dunbarton Tobacco & Trust, accompanied by a platter of meats and cheeses as a late afternoon aperitivo.

The earthy, cocoa, and leather notes of the cigar complemented the drink beautifully. While the bitterness of the Cynar muted some of the Umbagog Bronzeback’s pepper notes, it seemed to amplify the cigar’s cocoa and espresso characteristics. Taking a sip immediately after a draw brought out even more herbal and root-like bitterness in the bubbly cocktail.

I have many fond memories from our trips to Italy, and enjoying this new-to-me cocktail helps bring back those wonderful experiences.

Cheers!

Memories of Italy: A Negroni Evening in Santa Margherita Ligure

It’s no secret to visitors to these Musings that I frequently enjoy pairing a Negroni with a cigar. Naturally, I sought out the same combination during our vacation in Italy.

We spent a few nights at the Hotel Metropole in ‎⁨Santa Margherita Ligure⁩. The hotel features a large outdoor dining area where I enjoyed the classic cocktail — with a cigar, naturally.

Among the cigars I packed for the trip was a Dunbarton Tobacco & Trust 10th Jubilee that had been resting in my humidor since mid-March. I had smoked one from the box a few weeks earlier and was looking forward to revisiting it.

The Negroni was excellent, crafted with a rich vermouth and local gin that made for an especially refreshing rendition of the classic cocktail. As daylight faded over the Ligurian coast, the leisurely pace of the evening seemed perfectly suited to the drink and cigar alike. The comfortable patio, bordered by a lovely garden setting, added to the relaxing evening ambiance.

The Dunbarton Tobacco & Trust 10th Jubilee commemorates ten years since Steve Saka launched the company in 2015. The 5 5/8 x 48 Corona Gorda is wrapped in a smooth, dark Ecuadorian Sumatra wrapper. Beneath the wrapper is a Mexican San Andrés binder surrounding four Nicaraguan fillers sourced from the country’s major growing regions: Estelí, Jalapa, Condega, and Ometepe.

Though somewhat dark and foreboding in appearance, the 10th Jubilee delivers a medium-plus-bodied and nuanced smoking experience. The flavors are dynamic yet subtle, offering notes of baking spices, molasses, cedar, and earth, all occasionally accented by hints of black pepper. It is a cigar well-suited for quiet reflection.

The bitter cocktail added even more depth and enjoyment to the experience. The Jubilee’s balanced medium-bodied profile allowed the Negroni’s herbal complexity to remain expressive alongside the cigar. Combined with the warm evening air and birds singing in the garden, the pairing contributed to what felt like a quintessentially Italian evening.

Cheers!

Memories of Italy: Toscano Cigars

In early May, we spent 16 days touring several of Italy’s northern regions. Beyond the great food, historic sites, and stunning scenery, I always look forward to the relaxed attitude toward enjoying a cigar in Italy.

Naturally, I packed a travel humidor full of cigars for the trip. I always bring more than I expect to smoke — I never know what I’ll be in the mood for when the time comes to light up. Early in the journey, I also picked up a few Italian Toscano cigars to enjoy whenever the moment felt right.

A Late Afternoon Smoke in Stresa, Piedmont, Italy

The dry-cured cigars are ubiquitous in the many tabaccherie found along nearly every street. In addition to Toscano cigars, a typical tabaccheria sells cigarettes, pipe tobacco, lighters, bus and train tickets, postage stamps, and the occasional souvenir. A few I visited also carried modest selections of Cuban and New World cigars.

Toscano cigars are distinctive for their use of dark-fired Kentucky tobacco rather than the Caribbean-style tobaccos common in Cuban or New World cigars. Much of the tobacco is grown in Italy — especially in Tuscany, Umbria, Veneto, and Campania — with additional Kentucky tobacco sourced from North and South America.

The cigars require no humidor storage and are intentionally rustic in appearance — think Clint Eastwood in the old Spaghetti Westerns.

Prosecco in ‎⁨Piazza del Campo⁩, ⁨Siena⁩, ⁨Tuscany⁩, ⁨Italy⁩
 -- site of the famous Palio di Siena 

Toscano cigars provide a relatively quick smoke and pair wonderfully with a morning cappuccino, an afternoon espresso, or a pre-dinner aperitif. Their smoky, woody character delivers notes of earth, charred oak, and subtle sweetness.

During a tour of Lucca in Tuscany, our guide mentioned that the city was the home of Toscano Cigars. That bit of trivia sparked even more cigar conversation among my fellow travelers, many of whom had already become familiar with my cigar affections.

The Toscanos are rolled as slim panatelas, roughly six inches long and tapered at each end. They are often smoked “ammezzato” — cut in half — for a shorter session. Historically, they were frequently split and shared, earning them the nickname “friendship cigars.” Most of the Toscanos I enjoyed on this trip were smoked ammezzato alongside a coffee or aperitif.

Morning Coffee in ‎⁨Campo Santo Stefano⁩, ⁨Venice⁩, ⁨Veneto⁩, ⁨Italy⁩

Lighting up a Toscano — or any cigar — is a simple pleasure easily enjoyed in Italy’s outdoor cafés and courtyards. Most tables already have ashtrays available and, if not, one is quickly offered. People simply seem less bothered by the occasional waft of cigar smoke drifting through the air.

While in Venice, a cappuccino at a café in Campo Santo Stefano was especially memorable. The square bustled that Saturday morning with both tourists and locals. A brief rain shower passed through, but under the café umbrellas it caused little disruption. I lit a cigar as we talked and sipped our coffees, enjoying the lively rhythm of the café and the surrounding piazza. It made for a refreshing and relaxing pause during our morning stroll through Venice.

While we were in Bolzano, I stopped into a tabaccheria that offered an especially extensive selection of Toscano cigars. There, I picked up a box of Toscano del Presidente 20th Anniversario. The special edition commemorates the twentieth anniversary of the Toscano del Presidente cigar. These cigars are aged for 20 months instead of the usual 14 and come packaged in a commemorative box of 20 that includes a ceramic tray bearing the anniversary logo, which also serves as an ashtray.

Since the cigars and presentation box are sold exclusively in Italy and unavailable online, I figured they would make a fitting souvenir — albeit a somewhat bulky and heavy one for a carry-on bag.

With these new Toscano acquisitions, along with the selection already resting in my humidor, perhaps I can partially recreate the memories of smoking, eating, and drinking in Italy — at least until the next trip.

Cheers!

Enjoying Cigars in Italy

We kicked off October with an exciting whirlwind trip to northern Italy, which explains the brief pause in posting. Our journey took us through Venice, Murano, Burano, Padua, Ravenna, Bologna, Modena, Parma, Pisa, Florence, Siena, and Milan. What a ride! While we’ve previously explored the southern regions of Italy, this northern adventure was a fresh and unforgettable experience. Italy is rich in history, culture, and religious landmarks, making it impossible to take it all in on a single trip. Besides soaking in the sights and indulging in the incredible food, I always look forward to the opportunity to enjoy a few cigars in an environment far more welcoming to this pastime than in the U.S.

I packed a couple of travel humidors with cigars from home, but I was also on the lookout for cigar shops, hoping to pick up some Cuban cigars I’d been eager to try. In Italy, you’ll frequently encounter tabaccherias, or “tabacchi” shops. These small stores are like convenience shops, offering everything from tobacco products to lottery tickets, train passes, and stamps. The most common cigars found there are dry-cured Italian cigars, like Toscano. Early on in the trip, I picked up a pack of Toscano Classico, an inexpensive yet richly flavored smoke that I always enjoy, whether in Italy or back home.

My first chance to enjoy a cigar on this trip came in Venice. After a gondola ride through the canals on a sunny morning, we were hit with torrential rains in the afternoon. But during a brief break in the downpour, I seized the moment, lit up a Toscano, and enjoyed a relaxing stroll. I rarely smoke while walking at home, but in Italy, it’s a simple pleasure that feels perfectly natural.

Amidst all the sightseeing, and despite the frequent rain showers, I still found moments to enjoy a cigar and a drink at street-side cafés. After a fascinating visit to the Parmigiano Reggiano and Prosciutto factories in Parma, we stopped at a café in the heart of the city for some afternoon refreshments. It was the perfect opportunity to light up another Toscano Classico, while savoring a generously sized Negroni and a delicious pastry.

With the combination of busy schedules and unpredictable weather, it wasn’t always easy to find time to relax during the day. More often than not, I found those moments of peace after dinner, back at one of the hotels where we stayed.

For a late evening cigar I usually enjoyed one of the cigars I had brought from home, such as the AJ Fernandez Dias de Gloria Brazil Robusto shown above. The Bira Messina Cristalli di Sale purchased at the hotel bar was refreshing, even if it does come from an Italian Heineken brewery.

We stayed four nights at a very nice hotel in Montecantini. They had a large covered patio with plenty of seating. Unfortunately the hotel bar was not open every night — the service schedule seemed to be irregular.

On the first evening at the hotel, I took advantage of the clear night to enjoy a Perdomo Reserve 10th Anniversary Sun Grown Robusto I had packed from home. Alas, the bar was closed. 

It was mid-trip, while visiting Florence, that I came across the Tabaccheria San Giovanni Di Simonetti Mauro in the square near the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore. The well-reviewed shop had a fairly sizable selection of premium cigars, both the usual Nicaraguan and Dominican brands, as well as some Cubans. I picked up a few moderately priced Partagas Serie D No. 4.

Located in that same square was, of all things, an Irish pub. Of course we stopped in for a quick beer. 

The next evening, the hotel bar open, I shared a Partagas with a fellow traveler and we enjoyed the cigars, again with Negronis, before dinner. It was raining, so the covered patio was welcome.

I was pleasantly surprised by the Partagas Serie D. I did not take note of the date on the box at the store, so had no idea if the cigars' age. They seemed to be in good shape and showed no signs of cracking or damage. The flavor profile, as with all the (limited) Cuban cigars I've smoked, was on the mild side. The flavor had a sweet, cream and vanilla profile. There was a hint of cinnamon present but overall it was a quite mild smoke. 

The trip itinerary was filled with much more than cigars obviously. As always, there was copious delicious food and drink to be enjoyed. We moved around a lot, taking in numerous northern Italian cities. I had hoped to visit a store with a full selection of Cuban cigars. It was not until our last day, while in Milan, that I came across Noli Fumatori in the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. I did only some window shopping as there would be no time to consume any purchases before flying home.

The acceptance of personal choices in Italy, and Europe as a whole, is a stark contrast to the judgmental attitude found in America, despite the well-established freedoms we profess and enjoy here. Cigarettes and "e-cigs" are the prevalent choices, but cigar smokers are seen frequently. After finishing one quick lunch during the trip, our server came by and placed an ashtray on the table, as if the after-meal smoke was expected. I compared that to the shocked reaction shown by one of my traveling companions when she saw the remnants of a previous evening's cigar in the ashtray on a hotel patio in the morning. (Most days the outdoor ashtrays were emptied very early in the morning, if not late at night.)

More cigars, and drinks, were enjoyed than documented here, most of the time I didn't bother trying to get a photo, and just enjoyed the moment.

It was another great trip — despite our Irish heritage we truly enjoy visiting Italy. It's still the only place to get a proper espresso! I have no doubt this trip, our third to the country, will not be our last. 

Cheers!

A Brief Stop in Frankfort, KY

We spent the first week of July in St. Louis, MO attending a convention unrelated to my bourbon and cigar interests. Driving from Virginia by way of an overnight in Frankfort, Kentucky, we arrived after closing time for the local distilleries. We did enjoy dinner and a few drinks at Bourbon on Main in downtown Frankfort before retiring for an early morning start on the next leg of our trip. After an appetizer of Deviled Eggs and a cocktail, we enjoyed robust dinner of Kentucky Hot Chicken Strips and fries. I had a pour of E.H. Taylor, Jr. Straight Rye with my dinner. Never having tried the rye from this producer, I was curious. I found it enjoyable, not as much as the bourbons from Eh.H Taylor.

Returning home to Virginia by the same route, we again stopped overnight in Frankfort, KY. This time we planned to do some local sightseeing in the morning before continuing our journey.

Upon checking in to the hotel, we noticed there was a Big Boy restaurant next door. We walked over to it for a nostalgic dinner. Of course, a double decker smash burger with crinkle cut fries made up the enjoyable, even if not heart healthy, dinner.

Returning to the hotel I poured a bit of bourbon from my travel flask and sat down to plan the next morning's adventure.

Buffalo Trace Distillery is located in Frankfort. It's one of the few local distilleries open for visitors on a Monday. There were a few other sights nearby we wanted to see as well. The Buffalo Trace visitor center offers three bourbons on a daily basis; Buffalo Trace Bourbon, Traveller Whiskey, and Sazerac Rye Whiskey. They also offer a rotation of four brands, with one selection being offered each day; Weller Special Reserve, Eagle Rare, E.H. Taylor Small Batch, or Blanton’s Single Barrel. The daily offerings, and stock status are posted in the morning on the Buffalo Trace website. 

I was hoping that E. H. Taylor would be the pick of the day. Alas, it was not. Blanton's Single Barrel got the nod that day. The distillery opens at 9:00AM. Arriving around 8:20AM we joined a line of about 100 fans.

The distillery rules state that a person may buy just one bottle of each variety on the limited list within a 90 period. Apparently some folks did not check the website before arriving in the morning. When one of the guides announced the picked of the day a number of folks left the line since they happened to be in "Blanton's jail" already.

The first stop is to have or ages verified. Our driver's licenses were scanned, and we were issued wrist bands tied to our ID. This process both confirms a legal age for any tasting, and serves as the monitoring system for the limited purchases. 

We did not have time for a tour on this trip, so we went right into the gift shop. After perusing the many shelves of Blanton's, we each selected a bottle that contained needed topper letters, we continued shopping. We left with new glassware, a bar mat, t-shirts, and some miniatures of Buffalo Trace for fun. The bottles of Buffalo Trace are not bound by limited purchases, unlike in Virginia, but we passed on them. The car was extremely packed and I do have several backup bottles on hand. I saw visitors stocking up with carts full of that popular, and reasonably priced bourbon. I also saw one person being denied his purchase of Blanton's when the cashier scanned his wrist band and noted he had already purchased a bottle within 90 days.

We had not planned to do any tasting this trip, but the lines at the tasting bars were short so we opted to indulge. It just 10:00AM, but the pours were small. We enjoyed a guided tasting for just the two of us before getting back on the road.

On the outbound leg of the trip, we noted a few other stops in Frankfort we wanted to make. The first was a Frank Lloyd Wright house. The Reverend Jesse R. Zeigler Residence is a private home in a quiet neighborhood. We made brief stop to take photos. I am sure the residents are used to it.

I also wanted to see the Daniel Boone Monument in a local cemetery. After a winding drive around the large, old cemetery we finally came upon the monument. I had in my mind that this was the grave of Daniel Boone and his wife Rebecca. I later learned that Rebecca is indeed buried there. However there is controversy over the final resting place of her husband.

Apparently when the cemetery first opened, the remains of the couple were meant to be transferred to the new cemetery from the original resting place in Missouri. It later arose that the body buried next to Rebecca, and presumed to be Daniel, may in fact be another person. It is said that when Daniel died years after Rebecca, he was actually buried at her feet due to space availability. So it may be some other person under the monument, while Daniel Boone remains back in the Missouri site. A historical mystery that remains yet unresolved.

While in the cemetery we saw signs for the Kentucky Memorial for the Unborn. We made a brief stop to offer our prayers and respects.

After these stops, we continued our journey towards home. Stops for lunch, dinner, and stretching, made for a long day of travel. The trip was enjoyable and we saw many old friends gathered in St. Louis. We also caught up a cousin we had not seen in 25+ years for lunch. We already are thinking about when we will return to "Bourbon Country" for a longer, planned tour.

Cheers!

Italy: Negronis and Cigars

Bourbon was not a beverage we saw much during our stay in Italy, though in truth I was not expecting it either. Obviously we drank a lot of wine with our meals. When I went looking for a cocktail to enjoy with an evening cigar, the Negroni was a commonly available option. At our hotel in Assisi, the Negroni was the 7 Euro "special" available each evening, so an obvious choice. During the afternoons, the clerk on duty had mixology knowledge limited to Aperol Spritz, hence that beverage during a previous smoking break.

The Negroni is a classic Italian cocktail, that is very simple to make. It consists of equal parts gin, vermouth rosso, and Campari, stirred over ice and garnished with an orange slice typically.  As a side note, cocktails are about the only time one sees ice in drinks in Italy.

Despite being considered an apéritif, we usually enjoyed the negronis after dinner. (Especially at the hotel in Assisi where there was no one with the knowledge to prepare the drink until after 7:00PM.) One evening pairing was with a Rocky Patel The Edge 20th Anniversary Robusto. The cigar features a 10 year aged Ecuador Sumatra wrapper, a Honduran Broadleaf binder, with filler tobaccos from Honduras and Panama. The 5 1/2 x 50 Robusto is is a medium bodied smoke with rich notes of espresso, dark chocolate, and nuts.

Later in the trip, another evening and another Negroni, this time with the Plasencia Reserva Original Toro. The richly flavored 6 x 50 Toro has notes of espresso, cedar, pepper, and dark cherry, with some sweet bread in the background.

Did I mention I enjoyed a lot of Negronis in Ireland? Here's another pairing, this time properly consumed before dinner. This one was served in a water glass, with both an orange slice and a lemon peel. It was paired with the last of my cigars brought from home, a Crowned Heads Le Carême in the Canonazo (5 7/8 x 52) vitola. The Le Carême is one of my favorite smokes. This 5 7/8 x 52 box pressed stick has a Connecticut Broadleaf wrapper, a Sumatra binder, and Nicaraguan fillers. Though is has a creamy, sweet chocolate and nutty flavor profile it made another enjoyable pairing. (From this point on, smoking would be be limited to Italian Toscanos.

The Negroni is a more bitter cocktail than the sweeter profile of my usual straight bourbon, or Old Fashioned cocktail choices. However, all the cigar pairings were enjoyable. It was Italy after all.

And then...

When a friend who was also on the Italy trip came by for dinner recently, we decided to recreate the memory with more Negroni and cigars!

Cheers!

Italy: Tuscano Cigars

During our two week visit to southern Italy, I kept a casual eye out for cigar shops. I had brought along a few cigars to smoke, but not enough to last the trip. I also hoped to find a few Cuban cigars I was interested in trying. Although tobacco stores were ubiquitous wherever we went, actual retailers of fine cigars were rare. 

Throughout the country, the Tabaccheria, or “tabacchi," were ubiquitous and found every few blocks at a minumum. In these typically stall-like stores, a variety of tobacco products are sold. Rolling and pipe tobacco, "e-cigarettes," and standard cigarettes are very popular. There are selections of Italian cigars, most of which I am unfamiliar with. The most common were the ones from Tuscano, a name I had heard in the past at least. I frequently saw men walking through the towns with these rustic sticks in hand.

Toscanos are "charoot" type cigars made in Tuscany. Think Clint Eastwood in the old "spaghetti westerns" and you'll know the cigar. They are rough rolled, consisting of a wrapper, that doubles as the binder, and filler leaves. The tobaccos used are fermented Kentucky tobaccos grown in Italy. The slender cigars are wider in the middle and taper toward the ends. Traditionally they are cut in half and smoked, although after my first one, I skipped that step and smoked them "whole." The cigars are dry and do not require humidification. They are packaged 5 to a box.

The first one I tried was Toscano Classico. The approximately 6 x 38 stick has the strong aroma of a smokey campfire. I expected a harsh experience, but it was more of a medium bodied smoke and easy to smoke. The flavor was reminiscent of smoky BBQ and semi-sweet chocolate. My initial Toscano pairing was with an Aperol Spritz, a classic Italian afternoon aperitif, and some Amaretti di Loreto almond cookies. The combo made for an enjoyable afternoon after a morning of sightseeing. The cigar left behind a persistent smoked wood flavor in the mouth.

I also picked up a box of Tuscano Antico when I had some time to kill one afternoon in Rome. I smoked it in the plaza just outside of the Vatican while waiting for our group to assemble. (Smoking is prohibited within the Vatican City State.) These were described as having stronger pepper notes. The one I smoked was less sweet than the Classico and I found it somewhat bitter. 

Having smoked the cigar supply I had packed, and failing to find a place to restock by the end of our trip, I stuck with Tuscanos the last few days of the trip. I had a fun "Italian" pairing on one of the last evenings, consisting of a Tuscano Classica and Birra Moretti Italian-brewed beer. The cool beer was very refreshing on a hot and humid Rome evening. 

During our last day in Italy I found the Fincato La Casa del Habano in Rome selling both Cuban and other cigars, although with an extremely sparse inventory. Alas being the end of the trip I had no time to pick any up to smoke.

Cheers!

Italy: A Cigar and a Eucharistic Procession

We recently returned from a two week pilgrimage in Italy. Visiting historical and religious sites in Naples, San Giovanni Rotundo, Lanciano, Assisi, Rome, among others was a wonderful and joyful experience. Besides the beautiful churches and amazing history, we also enjoyed great food and drink, and even had time for cigars on occasion. 

Once such smoking occasion was in San Giovanni Rotundo, the home town of Saint Padre Pio. When we stepped outside after dinner I noticed the hotel's outdoor dining area had "Vietato fumare" signs posted -- some of the rare no smoking posters we saw during the entire trip. Our bus driver happened by and we asked him where we could smoke. He looked at us like we were crazy and waved his arms around, stating, "Outside." That was the situation almost everywhere. If an outdoor dinner area didn't have ashtrays on the tables, they'd generally bring you one if asked. 

We opted to stroll and smoke. We had visited San Giovanni Rotundo fourteen years ago, and although the town had grown and expanded exponentially, we still recalled our way around the old original section.

As walked by the Basilica where the Saint had lived, we heard the distinctive sound of a thurible being swung coming from inside the church. We realized a Eucharist Procession was taking place and the people were exiting the building onto the plaza in front. We stopped our stroll and knelt in adoration until the procession reentered the church. Coincidentally, during our first visit to San Giovanni Rotundo 14 years ago, we happened upon a huge procession as well during a festival. 

Although we had enjoyed cigars after some dinners earlier in the trip, I happened to joke to the priest friend with us that this could be the inaugural smoke of our informal Saint Pope Pius X smoking group. We took it as Divine Providence that the procession began as we arrived with our cigars in front the basilica. 

There would be many cigars and other adventures during our trip. Some of those will be the subject of later Musings.

Cheers!

Cigars And Bourbon On The Road

We took a long weekend trip to Blacksburg, VA recently to relax, do a little bit of hiking, and of course overindulge a bit on food and drink. Blackburg is one of our favorite "close by" vacations. During the summer, when VA Tech is not in session and the 30,000 students are not present, it still has some of that small town feel.

We had no set plans for the four days, only general intentions, so finding an evening or two to sit down with a smoke was not difficult. The weather for being outside was pleasant even though it was the first time this summer the area had reached 90°! We heard many of the town folk remarking on the hot temperatures, but we found it a nice respite, the low 90° daytime highs still being 9 - 12° degree cooler than we've experienced at home of late.

I bring along cigars and the necessary accoutrements anytime I travel. Often there is no opportunity for that pleasure, but it's good to be prepared. Hotels these days are notoriously anti-smoking, even outside. At one place we stay regularly, the prohibition is well signed, nonetheless I've spotted ashtrays and evidence of both cigars and cigarettes. 

After the afternoon drive and a big dinner I escaped to an out of the way patio with my travel ashtray and an Oliva Serie V. The Serie V is one of my go-to smokes. The creamy chocolate and cedar notes of the cigar goes well with coffee, bourbon, and even beer. On this evening, feeling satiated from the meal at a local restaurant and brewery, my chosen pairing of water was the perfect finish to the day.

On another evening, after a day of distillery and brewery visits, we settled onto the patio to enjoy the cool evening air while I smoked and sipped. This time I brought along a flask filled with Woodford Reserve Double Oak to go along with a Rocky Patel Hamlet Tabaquero. 

The Woodford Reserve was selected for travel since it's a bourbon that pairs well with most any smoke. The smooth, sweet oak flavor touched with some fruit and vanilla is always pleasing.

When it was announced last year that Hamlet Paredes was leaving Rocky Patel, the company stated that the Tabaquero line was being discontinued. As the Tabaquero by Hamlet Paredes is another favorite of mine, I immediately acquired a box of the cigar in the 6 x 52 Toro size. The Tabaquero blend uses a San Andrés wrapper, a Nicaraguan filler, along with a San Andrés and Brazilian Mata Fina double binders. The creamy sweetness, milk chocolate, cedar, earth, and oak flavor blend is always pleasurable. I've been rationing my supply, saving them for special-ish occasions, but I won't hold them for an extremely long time as I like the flavor profile just it is now.

It was a very refreshing mini vacation. It's fun to get away, but also nice now to be back on our regular eating and sleeping schedules, for a few weeks anyway. 

Cheers!

Smoking on the Danube

Last month we enjoyed seven day cruise on the Danube River that included ports of call in Germany, Austria, Slovakia, and Hungary. It was an amazing experience with beautiful sights, amazing food, and fun people. The conversations with people who lived much their lives under Communist rule were enlightening, and refreshing compared to the naiveté spouted by the left here at home. I knew setting out the schedule would be hectic, and I wasn't sure about the opportunity to enjoy cigars along the way. I did pack plenty, just in case

I did manage to find time to relax with a cigar on several occasions, usually in the evening after dinner. Nights on the sundeck were cool, breezy, and dark due to low lighting. Sort of like my deck at home in the fall. One afternoon we elected to stay onboard and relax rather than tour, so I immediately retired to the top deck and enjoyed the beautiful view and a fine cigar. 

Early in the trip I happened to mention having a cigar when talking to a couple we had just met. The husband's eyes lit up and I offered that he was welcome to join in. We enjoyed a couple of late night smokes. It's a testament to the cigar culture that strangers become friends quickly. We've exchanged contact info and I look forward to catching up on future travels.

I didn't get the opportunity to visit any cigar shops, like I did in Ireland. Most of the stores I saw were small stalls selling mostly cigarettes. The only smoking-related shopping I did was to pick up another disposable lighter. Not quite your typical souvenir.

Long Weekend Getaway

We recently escaped the daily routine around the house for an extended weekend in the southern reaches of Virginia. We found a small cabin rental near Galax, Virginia, located next to a charming stream. The cabin sat at the end of a long, gravel single lane road. Peaceful seclusion at its finest.

One of the first things we noticed upon arrival was that the fire pit by the stream was already stacked with kindling with a pile of firewood left nearby. It was the perfect place to relax after a long day of driving. The Crowned Heads La Coalición provided the perfect accompaniment to a cool glass of Legend Brown Ale. 

On the second afternoon of the trip we made an extended visit to a local craft brewery, Creek Bottom Brewing Company. We had a great time enjoying great food and beer, so expect a review of this brewery in a future post. Returning to the cabin, we once again retreated to the stream side fire pit. This time I lit a cigar I have been looking forward to with much excitement.

Crowned Heads Le Carême Belicosos Finos LE 2021 is a limited edition of the wonderful La Carême. La Carême is one of my "keep on hand" stick, if possible. I say "if possible" because the cigar has been unavailable for a while, in any vitola. The Belicosos Finos Limited Edition was last released in 2019. After seeing an availability announcement, I was fortunate enough to get in a pre-order for a box of the 2021 release. The cigars arrived a few weeks ago and I brought one along to enjoy on the trip. It's a great stick and I look forward to enjoying the rest of the box, over time.

We did a little sightseeing during the trip but spent most of our days hanging out at the cabin. The view and the sounds of the water, and the many birds flitting about were quite enjoyable. We even spied a mature bald eagle sitting over the stream. The early morning dew added to the mystique and beauty. 

It wasn't all time by the fire. The deck on the house offered a nice view, which at one point included a point of Guinness Stout and an Oliva NUb Maduro on a sunny afternoon. 

The Shot Tower State Park provided a brief respite from the drive on the trip home. The 75 foot tower was visible from the highway and we saw it on the drive down, so vowed to check it out. There appeared to be a nice walk along the New River adjacent to the park, which was noted for further exploration on a future visit.

The five day getaway was a most welcome break. While much of the time was spent reading or just sitting around, it was devoid of chores, and despite reasonable internet connectivity, no work-related interruptions. It wasn't until we started planning possible excursions for 2021 that I realized how little time off I'd taken in 2020. Hopefully, we'll make up for that in the coming year.